Two Excess

2011-08-31T11:54:00.003+10:00

Bodi braving the floodwaters

Hi !

Well we're still in Port Macquarie, and it looks like for the duration. At least we are still on a very convenient private jetty river mooring and we're enjoying catching up with friends and family. We survived the Hastings River flood in June, having to be towed by Sea Rescue to the neighbouring pontoon jetty when our mooring was almost submerged.

: Upriver sunset from Two XS

Bill has rebuilt the port motor and is in the process of reinstalling it, the watermaker is ready to go back in,and many other long-needed repairs achieved.

Yesterday a mighty bolt of lightning struck Two XS and from the top of the mast down everything electronic and electrical was zapped, so we're in the process of advising our insurers and then having it all replaced and repaired-could take months! Even the fridge and our brand-new tv. are useless.

We were not on the boat at the time, but poor Bodi was home alone, and fortunately no permanent damage to him,except the trauma of all the thunder,lightning and the explosion as the mast was struck.

So there won't be any further sailing adventures to report for quite a while.

We've made it ! Mon.28 March.2011

2011-05-01T13:54:00.001+10:00

Hi to all!

We have sailed back into Port Macquarie-even caught a wave over the bar to complete our Oz circumnavigation -only took nearly three years ! Oh what a feeling !

We will be spending at least a couple of months here, catching up with friends and relatives,as well as some necessary repairs to one motor, freezer and watermaker.After that,a trip to Lord Howe Is. with friends, then head further north to paint our shabby Two XS,then who knows where? Our first grandchild will be arriving early September in N.T. so maybe back to Darwin

Thanks to you for your encouragement and interest, much appreciated support in attaining our goal, and hope you have enjoyed the trip with us.We have had a ball!

Trish, Bill and Bodi

Swanning around The Lakes

2010-11-26T14:58:00.001+10:00

We're back in Victoria,and have been enjoying exploring the Gippsland lakes for about 2 weeks,easy sailing from one end to the other,with trips up rivers to Sale in the west and to Bairnsdale to the north-east.Well-maintained public jetties are everywhere .Friendly swan families are abundant much to Bodi's fascination,swimming right up to the boat and through underneath it.Mainly based at Paynesville,we've met more great people and been made very welcome by the locals.We were delighted that Marika and Khan were able to come down from Melbourne and cruise with us for a short time .And the weather is hot!
Sadly Bruny Is. is far behind us now,but we made sure we netted a good supply of oysters,as well as cheese from the local factory.Seals and dolphins farewelled us as we sailed briskly across the top of Bruny Is.into Storm Bay,then the short narrow Dennison Canal,where the highway bridge had to be opened,and finally out through a beach channel into the Tasman Sea.Wineglass Bay was revisited,then on to St. Helen's,where we waited several days for the right conditions to recross the bar and head north for Flinders Is.There was little wind at first,but as we approached Banks Strait,gusts of 30+ knots battered us-we had great sailing speed, but it was a very rough crossing,one front trampoline was ripped loose by waves,and we were relieved to reach Cape Barren Is. anchoring near Harley Point,virtually in the surf.Next morning it was calmer as we found our way through narrow,shallow channels via Vansittart Is. to Franklin Sound,and a peaceful mooring in the bay at Lady Barron on Flinders Is.
After an early start to catch the tidal current west through the tight rocky passage,we followed the reefy coastline as far as Port Davies,the former settlement of Wybalenna,site of the last vain attempt to save the Tasmanian aborigines.From here we sailed northwest to Deal Is. in the Kent group,an ideal sheltered anchorage approximately halfway across Bass Strait.A surprisingly beautiful bay amongst three rocky islands,we visited the historical museum and chatted to the volunteer caretakers and maintenance group working to eradicate harmful weeds.Leaving here,we could make out the mainland and with a good wind we speedily reached Refuge Cove,the only shelter on this part of Wilson's Promontory,a sandy beach,with huge rocks like gnomes lining the sides.We waited here for a couple of days for the wind to turn and the seas subside,then overnighted along Ninety Mile Beach,passing lit-up oil platforms,to reach Lakes Entrance at 8am and a flat calm bar to enter easily.
We are now waiting for a good weather window to launch out into Bass Strait again,as there are no safe anchorages between here and Eden.

Photos are at http://picasaweb.google.com.au/crewsers3

Will we ever get out of here?

2010-10-18T16:48:00.002+10:00

Springtime in Tassie!We are moored in peaceful Surges Bay on the lower Huon.It's raining and when we ventured ashore an hour ago,sago snow was falling on us as we walked.There are gales all around the coast,and it's snowing on Mt.Wellington.
Since the last post we have been around in a circle; after leaving Franklin we sailed south to Dover on Esperance Bay,where we met former Port Macquarie boaties,Tom And Dawn Elford,who took us home for lunch to their beautiful new home,enhanced with Huon pine,set in wooded acres,high on slopes overlooking the bay.We found we had many aquaintances in common,and caught up on the gossip as well as swapping travel stories.From Dover we crossed to South Bruny Is.,Quarries Bay near Lunnawanna,former source of sandstone for many of Hobart's historic buildings,then north to Barnes Bay again,and huge Pacific oysters all around the bay at low tide.
As we had a few on board problems,we decided to return to Bellerive for a week,then reprovisioned and problems sorted it was down the Derwent to Bulls Bay,Nth.Bruny,an idyllic sandy beach cove,with a farm overlooking the anchorage,and even a border collie dog rounding up the sheep.
Sailing further south,we visited Cookville,Adventure Bay, site of the first Tasmanian apple tree planting,and known for its Bligh Museum of Pacific Exploration,containing fascinating material and artifacts associated with Tasman,Furneaux,Cook,Bligh,D'Entrecasteaux,Flinders,Baudin and others.The remains of the tree which Cook inscribed here-'Cook 26 Jan.1777'-is preserved amongst the collection.The museum caretaker, after closing up at 4pm,insisted on giving us a lift to the store and cafe,2 kms.further around the foreshore,where Bodi was treated to 'dog chocolate'by the owner ,while we enjoyed homemade cake and great coffee.
The scenery was spectacular all down the coast,around Tasman Head, then through the rocky passage past Cape Bruny Lighthouse with quite a lumpy,surging swell,then joined by dolphins,to Bodi's delight as we crossed the channel to Southport,on the mainland.There we were able to obtain top up fuel at the fishing jetty,then headed further south through the reefs to picturesque Cockle Creek (pop.3),the last habitation south in Tas., on Recherche Bay.A beautiful,historic bay to explore while we considered the possibility of venturing around South East Cape and on to the West Coast.After much deliberation,consulting local fishermen and weather patterns,we decided it was just the wrong time of the year to try it,with continual cold fronts and huge seas,so turned back north.
Just after we reached Dover,by chance we met our friend Matt from Esperance,on a holiday trip around Tassie in his van,and enjoyed a great catch-up over dinner on Two XS.He had helpful local knowledge as his father had grown up there and sailed the area.Of course we also caught up with Tom and Dawn,invited to lunch again,where we met other locals,Colin and Elizabeth,who also owned a cat,which we had noticed moored further up the channel.After a trip to Partridge Is.near Cape Bruny,Mickeys Bay,and again huge oysters galore,we called in to visit Colin and Elizabeth in their beautiful cove at Police Point,then to Randalls Bay near Garden Is.where the swell became too much,so back to tranquil Surges Bay.
We are now intending to sail north around the top of Bruny Is.then north east through the Dunally Canal to the east coast,then weather permitting head north towards the "Big Island" eventually.
Photos are at http://picasaweb.google.com.au/crewsers3

The Long Way Around

2010-09-06T15:19:00.001+10:00

It's two months since the last blog post and we're only two-thirds of the way around Tasmania-we're at Franklin,a quaint historic village,moored next to The Wooden Boat Centre,on the Huon River.As usual,the weather has dictated our route-east across the north coast of Tasmania,then clockwise around.After a brisk sail,we landed at historic Stanley,where everything was closed for winter,then on to Wynyard,where we received a warm welcome first from local boaties showing us in and locating a spot on the town jetty,and then former Lighthouse Beach dwellers, Sue and Pete.We had a great time catching up,being treated to home-cooked meals,as well as being taken around all the best features of this region.
Our next port of call was Devonport,where we were made honoured guests at the Yacht Club,moored at the visitor pontoon, with a front row view of the 'Spirit of Tasmania'arriving and departing,making precision 360'turns in the narrow river.Further east,to reach Launceston required a 75km.trip up the Tamar River,with stopovers at George Town,then Rosevears, outside the historic pub,to Home Point Pontoon right in 'Lonnie'.It was an interesting old city,apart from the mandatory Boag Brewery,the walk up the scenic Cataract Gorge,then steeply down through the old part of town,amongst the elegant old houses.After several busy days it was back down the Tamar with the tide,in perfect weather,to Beauty Point,and a fascinating tour of Seahorse World.Back at George Town,Bill was given a lift in a ute to the distant local servo to top up our diesel-no on water fuel anywhere in the Tamar!
Continuing east,we stopped over outside Bridport,then with lively winds behind us averaged 9-13knots sailing through Banks Strait,Flinders Is. in the distance, but as we rounded the corner we had to speedily down sails with 'bullets'of strong winds 30+ hitting us.After passing miles of beautiful coastline,we spent a quiet night in the calm clear water of the bay north of Eddystone Lighthouse, then on past the Bay of Fires to Georges Bay,and the sheltered St.Helen's.This was to be entered via a bar,and a narrow,shallow channel,so we were grateful for the radio offer of the local Sea Rescue group to guide us in.While we waited in the bay we were treated to visit from a whale family,Mum,Dad and baby very close by for almost half an hour.
We spent a few days at friendly St.Helen's to avoid strong winds,enjoying fish&chips at the floating paddlewheeler cafe,and walks around the bay,then after a bumpy,wet bar crossing we were off again south,staying at Long Pt.,not going into Bicheno as seas were still not settled enough for comfort in Binalong Bay.The scenery was spectacular all down this east coast,but particularly on the Freycinet Peninsula,and our visit to Wineglass Bay was superb,including a great sunset glowing on the surrounding rocky peaks.From here we decided to sail through the Schouten Passage,across Great Oyster Bay,and up the narrow,shallow channel to Triabunna,an historic fishing village.Here we were directed to squeeze in at the jetty amongst the local trawlers,then we walked around the town with its old pub,churches,ex boarding house for staff of Maria Is.,historic houses,and Dead Isle-a cemetery which flooded at extra high tides.
Another perfect day as we set off to visit nearby Maria Is.in earlier days site of a convict settlement,whaling,flour and cement enterprises.We were alone except for the Cape Barren geese wandering everywhere,and the young ranger and family who drove by to say g'day,among the well preserved buildings of the former prison,a site of desolation and despair.That night we anchored further south on the island in tranquil Chinaman's Bay,near a convict-built stone jetty and roadway,and found ruins of former farmhouses.
The next section of the coast was even more spectacular,along the Forestier and Tasman Peninsulas,with huge rocky cliffs,amazing rock formations,like the Tasman Arch,the Blowhole and the Devil's Kitchen boiling and erupting as we sailed close by.To reach the calm anchorage at Fortescue Bay,we had to motor almost to the shore,past giant kelp beds,and in behind an old shipwreck,which prevented surge and swell entering.Leaving here we passed close to Cape Hauy and the rugged rock outcrops called The Lanterns.The passage between Tasman Is. and the mainland is said to be navigable only 40 days a year,saves a rough trip around,so we gave it a go-feeling the surge and the boiling effect as the waves rebounded off the sheer cliffs beside us-but it was actually more uncomfortable for the next hour after we emerged from the passage,as the winds had increased as predicted.
We were glad to reach the calm waters of Port Arthur,sailing right into the bay in front of the historic site,tying up at the public jetty.However we moved to a nearby vacant mooring next day because of the surge against the jetty as bad weather came up.We spent two days here,wandering around this eerie but beautiful site,mindful of how miserable it must have been for the earlier guests in the bad old days.
The weather turned for the better-we had a good sail around the peninsula into Storm Bay,past Wedge Is.and into peaceful White Beach,near Nubeena,then next day motorsailed on up the Derwent to Hobart-we sympathised with the Sydney-Hobart racers as lack of wind made this last section such a long haul.After a sail-by of Hobart docks we crossed to the east and tied up at the friendly Bellerive Yacht Club.This proved to be a very convenient location-within 500m we found cafes,bakery,newsagent,laundromat,fruitmarket,doctor,dentist,chiropractor and vet and the watertaxi picked us up at our boat to cross to the Salamanca Markets.Also nearby was Eastlands Shopping Centre,with Bunnings etc. close by.
We had a great two weeks in Hobart,caught up with Gill and Ken Procter,with whom we had lost contact when we all moved from Port Mac.about 40 years ago.Sadly they are no longer together,but we all got together to enjoy reminiscing.As well as taking us sightseeing to Richmond,Mt.Wellington and all over Hobart,Gill lent us a car for a week,so we were able to go to Opossum Bay,Dunally,and other areas we were unable to visit by boat,as well as provisioning easily.It snowed on Mt.Welli. several times during our stay-a great novelty to view from the front of Two XS!but it was only cold when windy.
After Hobart,we called at Margate,the only place in Tassie we could obtain a new prop for our dinghy motor,conveniently delivered to the jetty.Then to Kettering,and over to Barnes Bay on Nth.Bruny Is.where Bill gathered a yummy feed of huge oysters-nearly as good as Kimberley memories.As strong winds were predicted we headed back to the mainland and up the Huon River,dodging fish farms,admiring the forests of huge golden wattle lining the hills,and the snow-topped Harzt Mts.behind.We stayed at Surges Bay-calm despite its name-then on to Port Huon,where we dinghied as far as the weir up the Kermandie River,then walked to Geeveston the timber town,with carvings of local identities and the Southern Design Centre.
Moving further up the Huon,we stayed at Franklin,then spent a few days up through the channels at Huonville,where a local friend of a friend lent us a car.We are now back in Franklin,having been able to go exploring by road up the mountains and down to Cygnet,across the hills east to Peppermint Bay,a very scenic drive with views across to Bruny Is. and beyond.
We're still keen to do the West Coast,but weather predictions are not promising,so we may have to return via the East Coast,maybe visiting different places along the way.

You'll love the photos at http://picasaweb.google.com.au/crewsers3

Southern Comfort

2010-07-01T16:09:00.001+10:00

Sunday, June 27,2010.
It's been a while since last blog post,but we've been busy travelling or socialising with family and friends in Melbourne,so settle in for a long read.We're moored comfortably courtesy of local fishos on a giant chain buoy in Grassy Harbour,King Is.Tas.,waiting for a strong front or two to pass,as well as unwinding metres of crabpot line off our port prop.We've done the uphill walk to the ghost mining(tungsten) town of Grassy,about 6kms return.It was weird to see abandoned,delapidated houses with some of the best coastal views of Bass Strait.Unfortunately the KIng Is.dairy is situated about 40km north of here,and no samples in the local store.Bodi nearly exhausted himself chasing the numerous wallabies through the bush.It's very isolated as nobody lives near the harbour,only the fishos turning up at 5am every morning from somewhere else to head out for a few hours then return.The highlight of the week is the huge freighter ferry which turned up this morning on its weekly visit,bringing supplies from the mainland.
The giant pandas at Adelaide Zoo were a disappointment-one slept through our visit and the other wandered aimlessly around the outdoor yard,looking for its jungle.The hippos and meerkats were much more fun to watch.
Our stopover in Adelaide at an end, we were off again back south to Wirrina Marina where we stayed until 2am.,leaving at this time to catch the tidal flow around Cape Jervis and through the Backstairs Passage.Quite a fast smooth ride,favourable winds,then on to arrive at Victor Harbour early afternoon,where we anchored off Granite Is.near the causeway where the horse-drawn tram shuttles tourists back and forth.John,whom we had met in Albany,and his wife Paula took us for a great drive,showing us the spectacular coastal scenery as well as to historic Goolwa,for lunch at the Aquatic Club,watching the old wooden boats sailing by.While in Victor Harbour we stocked up on winter woollies as it was getting colder.
On our overnighter to Robe the wind was so good we had to slow down to wait for light till 7am,to avoid possible crabpots on our way into harbour.Strong winds set in for two days so we stayed in the nearly new marina,tourist-walking around Robe,checking out the many old buildings, the old gaol and the Governor's residence,reminders of when it was a major port and arrival point for the throngs of Chinese on their way to the goldfields.
S/SE winds delayed our arrival at Beachport ,also the increased the danger of crabpots,set just outside the harbour.aftera quick coffee break ashore next morning,we moved to the other more sheltered end of the bay to Southend(Greytown),a tiny community.Next day we headed for Port McDonnell,arriving after dark-such short days-but moonlit enough to find a convenient,suitable mooring buoy,just inside the harbour.We followed the fishing fleet out early next morning,just light enough to avoid lurking lines of crabpots,making good time to Portland,where it was cold,darkening and too wet to dinghy ashore.However a family of seals decided to use Two XS as their cubby-house,and to Bodi's delight spent most of the night doing tricks underneath and around us.Bodi cried as we left them behind leaving harbour next morning.
We entered the narrow channel at Port Fairy along with many small power boats returning from their tuna fishing competition,and were invited to tie up at the main wharf with the large pro-fishing boats,only metres from a fish and chippery.It's a friendly town,a popular pastime walking the wharf,so just about everyone passing by stopped to talk to us,and a group of tuna fishermen gave us a large fresh slab of bluefin.A lovely old town,sheltered from the next bout of strong winds,we had plenty of walking exercise.From here we set off for Warrnambool,gathering giant kelp around the props,surfing our way in through the reefy entrance channel to the calm harbour,which unfortunately is several miles from town.Dolphins escorted us out next morning,heading for Apollo Bay,on the way a close look at the Twelve? Apostles and London Bridge,but later we ran out of daylight,and anchored half a mile off the coast at Station Beach two miles west of Cape Otway(thanks to Kevin Lane's clear directions in his book). Parallelling the Great Ocean Road about two miles offshore we passed Apollo Bay,Bell's Beach where we could make out hardy surfers in the waves,all with a background of towering cliffs,Lorne and on to Anglesea,where we anchored inside the reef,but could not go ashore because of the swell and surf on the beach.
From here we set off to catch the tidal flow into Port Phillip Bay at the Rip,which was tame compared to some of the tidal whirlpools we encountered elsewhere.The wind dropped so we had to motor twenty miles up the bay to anchor off the jetty at Altona in cold fog and mist.It was an interesting trip up the Yarra next morning,yielding right of way to a huge freighter near the Westgate Bridge,then on to the almost new Waterfront City Marina at Docklands,which Marika had found for us months before.In The heart of Melbourne,Looking straight up Latrobe St.to the city,with Etihad Stadium in front,all for $30 a night!and the free city circle tram 200m. walk away,via the Docklands shopping complex of fashion outlet stores,restaurants and cafes and the studio where Huey could be seen at 4pm every day making his cooking show.
We stayed here for 10 days,with never a spare minute,catching up with so many people-Marika and Khan (until they took off on their trip to N.T.to visit Ben & Bianca),sister Jen and Barry,and friends from Melbourne we hadn't seen for so long,as well as fellow boaties in the marina.We were taken sightseeing,wining and dining,shopping,and even a bbq and sleepover at Barry's brother's home,Bodi included.What a great time we had,and so much help in getting necessary things done-our thanks to everyone who made it such a satisfying stopover.For our trip back down the Yarra,and on to Sandringham Yacht Club Marina we had extra crew on board and a perfect sunny! day with just enough wind to fill the sails.The best weather we'd had in all our time in Melbourne.A SYC member, Jeff, met at Docklands(now owner of Lionheart,Jesse Martin's round the world yacht)arranged a berth for us at the visitor jetty,where we stayed for a week, very convenient for our friends living nearby,Ken & Faye,Judy & David.
Next stop down the Bay was Mornington then Portsea,then back out into Bass Strait,where with good winds we decided to do an overnighter to King Is.,sailing most of the way in bright moonlight.Our destination was Currie on the west coast,but daylight showed it to be a no-go, waves breaking across the entrance and full of large fishing boats bouncing around in the swell.We kept going south around Stokes Point, in almost similar conditions to the Leeuwin experience,but with the added degree of difficulty provided by hundreds of nests of crabpots set across our route.Past the point we headed north for the shelter of Grassy Harbour-both props by this time obviously disabled by either giant kelp or crabpot line,but conditions too rough for Bill to try to clear them.However the wind turned to our advantage,so we were able to reach port safely and recover.
Since I began this post,we have moved on,fortunately there was no internal motor damage and Bill was able to remove the rope wound and knotted around the prop,after a couple of chilly,strenuous hours spent under the back of Two XS,in the dinghy armed with a fearsome -looking knife mounted on long boathook.Today presented a weather window for us to reach Hunter Is.at the extreme N.W tip of Tassie,where we will wait for a chance to sail down the West Coast,or across the top, if conditions are more suitable.

Photos are at http://picasaweb.google.com.au/crewsers3

One Big hop

2010-05-12T21:03:00.004+10:00

We are in Adelaide at the Royal S.A.Yacht Squadron (est.1869),a real marina,at Outer Harbour,a long way(3/4 hr train ride)from the city,but very hospitable and comfortable.We've been very busy catching up with people here,as well as doing boat maintenance jobs,but we hope by the weekend the winds will let us continue south towards Melbourne then Tasmania.A very cold S/SW is blowing and it's only 14.The original builder of Two XS has his new cat here (another Chamberlin design),and was very interested to see the improvements we have made to his "baby".
Yes we have done the Bight-we decided to make Daw Is.in the Eastern Group,our last stopover,and what an experience!A beautiful sheltered bay,surrounded on three sides by huge rock mountains rising out of the sea, and small rocky islands,covered with seals,much to Bodi's fascination-he would have dived in to swim with them if we'd let him.From there (Monday)the first three days were unbelievably calm and warm,spent catching fish and trying to fill the sails.When the wind came up it kept changing direction,making conditions bumpy and swelly,mainly on the nose.We managed our 'watches' ok. with Bill sleeping during the days,and taking over for most of the nights,and saw no other vessels until nearly to K.I.With the rougher seas and wind behind us, we reached up to 12.5 knts.but the 12yr old pump on the new autopilot split a bearing,so we had to handsteer,two hours about,for nearly 24 hours until reaching American River,K.I. about 4pm. Saturday,and were thankfully directed to a mooring by Allan of A.R. Radio.
After recovering we had a great time at A.R.(not a river just wrongly named by a group of American sealers in 1803),only 250 pop. but helpful and hospitable with invites home to dinner,cuppas,and trips to Kingscote(historic main town)for cafe experiences,provisions,and sightseeing.Bodi enjoyed the pelicans and the dolphins cruising around us.A quick phone call, and Sam from Adelaide,previously met at Albany on 'Sanity'posted us a new bearing and Bill fixed the autopilot.
On the way north up the St.Vincent Gulf,we stopped over at Wirrina Cove Marina,an excellent modern facilityin the middle of nowhere,caught up with Sam and had a very long steep walk up the huge hills surrounding the marina.Early next morning we set out for Adelaide;the wind was against us but we knew another front was approaching so had to reach shelter before it caught up.We reached the Adelaide Port channel just after dark,very confusing with all the port lights in the background, to make out the channel markers between rock walls and the leads.As it turned out a huge freighter was heading out directly ahead as we were approaching the port.No wonder we couldn't see the leads.It had no visible lights,we could only make out a looming large silhouette,then a handheld torch flashing from up on the front deck.Next thing,the pilot boat came roaring up beside us,shouts telling us to get out of the *# way of the #* ship bearing down on us.A very quick side swerve,trying to make out our distance from the rocks,as we saw the hulk gliding closely by us.Just as well the RSAYS marina was calm and well-lit, only a short distance further on past the vehicle,passenger and stock terminals,next to the brilliantly lit huge container wharves.
Here we were next day allotted a prime position berth,right in front of the clubhouse and amenities,and have been busy meeting and talking with other boaties,acquiring more cruising info. about Tasmania and the S.A. coast. We were thrilled to be taken to lunch at the Adelaide Wine Centre to celebrate my birthday by friends Bill and Barbara. Also Kevin from Albany has been here in town visiting his mother,so he has kindly taken us sightseeing and provisioning.We have been shopping for warm clothes and our latest project is pickling olives from the many ripe treefuls lining the streets around here.Tomorrow we're off to see the Giant Pandas at Adelaide Zoo.
Photos are at http://picasaweb.google.com.au/crewsers3

Bound for the Bight

2010-04-16T16:39:00.001+10:00

We're on the move again,cruising through the spectacular rock islands of the Recherche Archipelago,making for Middle Is.,our final stop before launching ourselves into the Bight.
We had so many good experiences in Albany we feel invigorated to continue our voyage.The Magna was sold only 2 weeks after our arrival,but the new owner generously allowed us to keep it for most of our stay so we were able to fully explore the attractions of this scenic and historic region-Valley of the Giants,Treetop Walk,Denmark,Elephant Rocks,Two Peoples'Bay,Torndirrup N.P.,Whaleworld,and historic Albany.
The helpfulness and hospitality of many locals,especially Brian and Mark,was really appreciated.Kevin Lane (Cruising West,180 Anchorages) regaled us with his sailing anecdotes,and much relevant advice on this southern waters area.Georgie and Stewart and Maxine and Brian kept us supplied with fresh veges. from their gardens.Amazingly there were 4 other 'cats' at P.R.S.C. Marina,so we spent many enjoyable hours of company and 'sundowners',sharing stories of our experiences,especially Mark,with his world-wide sailing adventures.As well,"Ohmless",(Chrissie,Mike and Alfie),returned to their home port,and a welcome reunion-we hadn't seen them since December.
Other interesting events were the big Little Grove bushfire,set off near the windfarm,by a crashed Ulysses biker, in Albany for their 3000 member annual meeting;the fierce all-night lightning and thunder storm(no hail thank goodness),and meeting other boaties travelling through.We have now gladly swapped our West Coast charts,except the Kimberley,for South Aus., Tasmania and Pacific areas,and have acquired several reliable weather programmes.
After spending more than 6 weeks in Albany,waiting for the 'right'winds and weather,we day-hopped to Esperance,via Cheyne(Hassell) Beach,Groper Bluff,Bremer Bay(6 days),House Beach(Doubtful Is.Bay),Starvation Boat Harbour and Butty Hbr.having a few adventures along the way.The first afternoon out of Albany,off Cape Vancouver,we were hit by a sudden "front",ripping the headsail and dumping our spinnaker pole overboard.After securing the sails,we went back to where it was still floating,but as we came alongside ,it upended and sank!No more 'poledancing' for Bill.Fortunately we were later able to get the sail stitched in Esperance,with local Matt's help.Two hours later in the turbulent swell between Bald Is. and the mainland our garbage crate(tied on) was sucked off the back deck,and a galley cupboard burst open -two Zebra dinnerplates were smashed on the floor.
At Bremer Bay we experienced more wild weather and thunder and lightning ,but caught fish, and were able to buy Easter Eggs after a 3km. walk to the only general store/postoffice/fuel/liquor/bank shop.Another mishap here on one of our beach landings when we hit the hard sand beach travelling fast in the dinghy-a suspected cracked rib for Bill. Starvation Boat Harbour showed leads on our charts but none were apparent,so we had to navigate through the rocks and reef using our plotter and Cmaps.Butty Harbour was reached in pitch dark,but with nowhere else to go we managed to feel our way to anchor next to a rocky point using radar and the trusty plotter.What a beautiful spot next morning!
Esperance was a friendly town,smaller than we expected-no highrise.The sailing club,especially Allan,made us welcome and gave us a pole berth in their marina when winds whipped up in the bay.Matt took us on a grand tour-The Ocean Drive,magnificent bays,rocks and beaches,with panoramic views of the Archipelago to the east.After spending a week there we have decided to go with the winds and head for the Bight.We estimate it could take us at least 7-10 days to reach land,depending on the winds,maybe Ceduna or Kangaroo Is.
Photos are at http://picasaweb.google.com.au/crewsers3

The bottom lefthand corner

2010-02-12T19:41:00.003+10:00

Finally we're in the Southern Ocean,and have safely arrived in Albany.The dreaded Cape Leeuwin,where the two oceans meet,lived up to expectations.We spent a very rugged night rounding the cape at sometimes less than 2knots,tossed about in 20-30+ gusts of wind and converging currents.We had intended to overnight at Hamelin Bay, but by the time we were near there it was too late;it's not a bay you enter for the first time in darkness,so we had to make the decision to continue on around the Cape.There was nowhere to rest until reaching a bay near Point d'Entrecasteaux the following day about 4pm.And then the surf was too rough to go ashore.
Next day with some help from the wind we reached Peaceful Bay,a beautiful spot,but it took 6 attempts to anchor in the tiny rock-strewn anchorage,where two boats was a crowd.We were not thrilled to hear the anchor drag alarm at 3am.The following day we stayed at Dunsky Bay,,near Torbay Head,an idyllic tiny steep beach,clear blue water,surrounded by huge smooth rocks.We set out from here with ever increasing winds,on the nose of course,tacking backwards and forwards across the bay,right up under the towering wind-farm mills.It was a terribly rough ride around Bald and Limestone Heads,but the huge rocks above us were spectacular.On the final run towards the harbour entry channel,we nearly ran over lines of black buoys,probably oyster leases.Once inside the harbour,we headed for the Town Jetty,as advised by our FSC guide,but found only piles of rocks and earthmoving equipment,as they are remodelling the whole area.A quick radio call to the local VMR and we were rerouted to the Princess Royal Sailing Club on the other side of the bay,where two helpful locals guided us into a safe berth at the marina jetty,where we still are moored.
We have been made so welcome here by the locals and offered every assistance,even a lift into Albany the next morning to catch the coach to Bunbury at 8am.to pick up our car.That provided a scenic tour through interesting old towns,then we took another route coming back and covered more picturesque areas,reaching Albany just on dark.We are looking forward to seeing more of the places around here,as what we have glimpsed so far has been spectacular,both from the sea and on land.
This last couple of months have been great,taking daytrips all over the southwestern area,from the Swan Valley,Perth Hills,historic Bunbury,Busselton, the beautiful West Coast area and the hinterland.We even drove down to Cape Leeuwin and Augusta to get an idea of what lay ahead.We visited many wineries and breweries and were given a Margaret River tour by local Ned,whom we had met on the way down from Broome,sailing on 'Othello'.
Marika and Khan's visit was a highlight,catching up after more than 18 months.Unfortunately,because of strong winds,we didn't do much sailing with them,however we progressed from Fremantle to Bunbury,taking inland sightseeing trips,and they managed to swim,relax and enjoy the sunshine.
Bunbury is an historic city with many well-preserved old buildings and houses,strong links to the early settlers.We preferred Busselton as it is a smaller,friendly town,well-situated in the centre of the wine region,close to the West Coast,with its spectacular bays and beaches and surfing spots.It was here we met Dave and Dale on 'Raffles Class'and later at Quindalup,Hugh and Robyn on 'Georgia',both couples living aboard,when not at home on Christmas Is.which sounds like another paradise.
We have met so many friendly,helpful and interesting people here that it's going to be hard to continue on our way in a couple of weeks' time.Many also have knowledge and experience of crossing the Big Bight.We have ordered a new Delta anchor from Fremantle,so hopefully we will have no further trouble anchoring along the Southern Coast,as these are more suited to conditions here than our Ploughs.
Don't forget to view photos for this blog at http://picasaweb.google.com. au/crewsers3

Rocking with penguins

2009-12-08T13:34:00.003+10:00

We're at Rockingham Bay,south of Fremantle,at the lower end of Cockburn Sound,opposite Garden Is. Naval Base,enjoying a relaxing break before we head out to the south and into the Indian ocean again.It's a perfect bay mooring,only 100m from the beach,yacht club,cafes and shops,next to 'Fortuna',with tiny penguins swimming underneath the boat.We ferried to nearby Penguin Is.Sanctuary and saw the huge colonies of breeding pelicans and cormorants,and watched the tame tiny penguins being fed at the Discovery Centre.
Two days after reaching here we bought a bargain car,a '96 Mitsubishi Magna,so we will have transport during the next few months ahead while we're waiting in this SW region to cross the Bight.There is so much to see around this area,including Margaret River.
Carnarvon proved difficult to leave;we were held against the Fishing Harbour fuel wharf by the strong evening southerly,and only managed to escape next morning by securing a line to an adjacent dock to help pull Two XS around.However, the further south we went into Shark Bay,the better the conditions,if very shallow.We anchored just off the beach at Monkey Mia in incredibly clear blue water. During our return trip to shore,a resident mother dolphin and calf came up beside the dinghy,swimming laps around us,eyeing the excited Bodi,who would have jumped in with them,only held back by Bill grabbing his tail.
We stayed over at beautiful Cape Peron,surrounded by huge red sand cliffs and clear shallow water on our way to Denham,where the Shark Bay Discovery Centre contains an outstanding display,including a replica of Dirk Hartog's plate,originally affixed north of here over 300years ago.Passing Australia's most westerly mainland, Steep Point, we sailed back out into the Indian Ocean,heading out at least 20nm to catch the helpful Leeuwin Current,and avoid the effects of the shipwreck-littered Zuytdorp Cliffs,extending 150nm south.After an uncomfortable,bumpy overnighter we reached tiny Port Gregory,in through reefs and rocks.Unfortunately the headsail failed to furl properly in the strong wind and had to be secured around with halyards to prevent its flapping shaking Two XS wildly,and could not be sorted out until Geraldton, when the wind abated.
There we anchored in the bay near the Yacht Club close to the town,and spent several days sightseeing and recovering,preparing for the next major leg to Fremantle.All the stopovers,Port Denison,Jurien Bay,Lancelin and Two Rocks,required entry through outer reefs,then narrow,twisty and often shallow access to a harbour and welcome shelter and calm.At Two Rocks,moored at the marina fuel wharf,Bill had to go underneath Two XS in the dinghy to repair damage to the forward strakes of the bridgedeck,where waves had repeatedly hammered all down the coast,and water was forced inside.However Two Rocks was a friendly,convenient place,and 'Ohmless'and 'Toucan'caught up with us here,while 'Fortuna'had gone on ahead.
Next stop was Hilary's Marina,a northern suburb of Perth,where we were invited to tie up at the V.I.P.wharf in front of the Yacht Club,because as usual down this coast there were no pole berths wide enough to accommodate a cat.There is a huge separate marina complex with tourist and upmarket shops,cafes and restaurants,all on the waterfront.At Fremantle we had a berth on the Fremantle Sailing Club visitors' wharf,a huge marina area,fortunately sheltered here while gale force winds blew outside for most of our stay.It was so cold and windy while we did our tourist thing,travelling to Perth by train,only 30 minutes away,to take in the sights-a clean if small modern city.We walked and bussed all over Fremantle,full of imposing and quaint historic buildings,the Maritime Museum a fascinating place to visit,including a guided tour of the submarine HMAS Ovens.We stocked up on fresh produce at the old markets in the town centre,especially the double-sized punnets of yummy strawberries-a local treat.
Don't know how long we'll stay here,with everything so convenient,but will eventually sail back out into the Indian Ocean and the prevailing afternoon southerlies,maybe as far as Busselton by New Year.We are looking forward to Marika and Khan flying over from Melbourne to join us then for about ten days-haven't seen them since June last year!
View photos for this post at http://picasaweb.google.com.au/crewsers3

Besieged in Carnarvon

2009-10-21T20:05:00.003+10:00

We've wished for wind before on many occasions,but this is ridiculous-strong wind warning for this whole section of the West coast have been in place for five days! At least Carnarvon is a very pleasant and convenient town to be,after a nightmare overnighter from Coral Bay-nowhere to stop,wind against us,steep waves close together,motoring most of the way.
Broome,now 1300 miles behind us,provided avery enjoyable break,although busy with repairs and reprovisioning,and ruled by tide for trips ashore.As well as being an historic,multicultural town for pearling,it is also a thriving tourist centre,laid -back and beautiful,set off by red cliffs,yellow sand beaches and bright turquoise water.Most of our Kimberley cruising companions caught up with us,also preparing for the trip south.
From there on the coast is less hospitable,anchorages few and not very comfortable,sometimes anchoring in the shallow ocean for a break.However we had good winds and flew down Eighty Mile Beach averaging 8-9 knots,the water less than 3metres deep for miles out.Within 5 days we reached Port Hedland,an iron ore and salt exporting centre,the anchorage right beside the shipping channel,but a friendly yacht club nearby.The town consists mainly of accommodation for mine workers,to be flown in and out of the Pilbara.Two XS was covered with red dust by the time we set out 2 days later for Depuch Is.There we climbed Anchor Hill to check out aboriginal rock carvings,discovered by the crew of HMS Beagle in 1840, mostly turtles and fish on the large boulders which covered the island.
Next on to Dolphin Is. where we navigated slowly over the rocky shallows of Searipple Passage,saving many miles around on our way to Dampier.Avoiding huge bulk iron ore carriers and container ships,we eventually reached the sheltered bay anchorage,to find a yacht club with a floating pontoon jetty.Also we met Darwin boatie friends,Kylie,Mick and dog,Gypsy(joyful reunion for Bodi),staying and working in the area for a while,and we were grateful for being driven around sightseeing as well as shopping in Karratha.Although Karratha is a busily expanding iron ore and gas centre-the scale of the industry is amazing,Dampier is a quiet backwater.
More of our fellow cruisers arrived there,making quite a fleet heading for Perth and beyond-Wendera,Quoll 11,Othello and Pretty Woman(2);more socialising and catching up.
Good winds helped us past Cape Preston,where a monstrous bulkloading facility is being constructed,an uncomfortable,rolly night at Great Sandy Is.anchored next to reef,then on to Onslow.Here we caught up with Fortuna,another cat en route to Perth,and our present sailing companions.We were able to refuel up the shallow creek in Onslow,thanks to our Bailey card,and wash Two XS,but it is only a very small town with a salt loader,pub,supermarket and a flourishing community garden.But there was tv,phone and internet access so Bill and Damien were able to watch the footie Grand Final.
Next stopover was Serrurier Is.,a lovely spot,white sand beach,clear aqua water,whales frolicking just outside the bay.We decided to miss Exmouth and head around the corner-North West Cape,through Ningaloo Reef to Tantabiddi,where we unfortunately caught up a 30m mooring buoy rope on a rudder,spending an uncomfortable bumpy slappy night,stern on to the wind and waves.
All the anchorages in this stretch were inside Ningaloo Reef,with swell ,shallows and lurking reef to contend with during entry and not much shelter inside,including Norwegian Bay(former whaling station) and Maud Point,near Coral Bay.We had to dinghy around,over reef and shallows,to visit Coral Bay;a beautiful unspoilt little tourist town,pub lunch at the Reef Resort,then a very wet ride back as the wind had come up,with Bodi sheltering under the dinghy cover.
Carnarvon was once a main shipping port,so we have checked out the Historic Precinct near the One Mile Jetty with the lighthouse keepers'cottage museum,railway and shearers museum.Maybe we'll be able to leave for Shark Bay by the weekend?
PS. It's getting colder so we now have to wear clothes instead of our swimmers 'uniform'.
Photos for this post can be found on http://picasaweb.google.com/crewsers3

Kimberley cruisers emerge

2009-09-19T17:25:00.003+10:00

After nearly two months of communication blackout,we're in Broome,and have phone ,internet and tv. access again after cruising the Kimberley wilderness.
We sailed out of Darwin on 18th July, reaching the Berkeley River a few days later.From here on we explored it and the navigable reaches of the King George,Drysdale, Mitchell and Prince Regent Rivers,and many bays,inlets and islands.Most of the rivers were huge gorges,with amazing rock formations, pools and waterfalls behind rugged rockbars, requiring strenuous climbing-We couldn't believe how well Bodi managed to stay up with us and avoid the crocs!
The beauty of the Kimberley and its variety of land and seascapes has to be seen to be appreciated.We had the most wonderful time experiencing it as well as the fun and camaraderie with other boaties.We have selected a sample of our hundreds of photos, to give you an idea of what we've seen and done and you can view them by going to- http://picasaweb.google.com.au/crewsers3

Departing Darwin

2009-07-17T15:02:00.005+10:00

Bodi looking for mate Bob
Low tide at Port Keats
Busy turtle
Bare Sand Is.
Brave Bodi with Mimis,Barunga
Gunlom.pool above falls
Rock painting
View from Ubirr,nth.Kakadu
DEPARTING DARWIN !

The saga continues-after a nine-month stay in Darwin we’re on our way again.Bill’s six month employment with Nautical Supplies spun out to nearly eight.The Wet and its almost intolerable humidity is over and the Dry-one perfect day after another,and no rain at all has arrived.We enjoyed our time there, met many new friends, and got to know The Top End and experience its unique character-to say nothing of the many unique characters we lived amongst at the anchorage at Sadgrove’s Creek and Dinah Beach Yacht Club.
Main highlights of our season in Darwin were:
Our frequent visits with Ben &Bianca- a Barunga Xmas, Barunga Sporting and Cultural Festival in June,following our tour of Kakadu in B&B’s 4wd camper,including a flight over the most interesting areas.
Bought our car in November, which made activities and exploring Darwin much easier-and Bodi could visit the beach-if not for a swim.Sold it to other ‘boaties’ two days before leaving.
We bought a new autopilot and chartplotter-now appreciating the new technology.As well other equipment was installed-the cockpit seats were recovered; a new boomtent and outside window covers were designed and made with the help of friends.The long-suffering headsail was professionally renovated and Bill spent most of his weekends improving Two XS.Our ‘ducky’ has a new owner, and we are now equipped with a tinny,called Rudolph for the red nose we installed to avoid damage,and a new 9.8 Tohatsu. Apparently,crocs don’t take bites out of aluminum as readily as rubber.
TwoXS, laden with supplies, finally set sail for the Kimberley and beyond on June 24.A wonderful first night out was spent at Bare Sand Is.,a tiny islet with only one tree but heaps of sand-a mecca for egg-laying turtles at this time of the year.We followed one lady up the beach watching her lengthy nest-digging,laying and cover-up-it takes 50 days for their hatching.
After anchorages at Point Jenny-beautiful beach,then Cape Scott,we made Port Keats-not a port at all,just an inlet.On the beach here we found a tidal pool for a long-awaited swim.Next morning we found that the compressor on our freezer had died,and although we had another electrical system for backup,and no food was spoilt,we decided to return to Darwin for repairs,as we had a freezer expert to help us there.In fact, he generously lent us his spare vehicle during our stay.However, freezer fixed, we were ready to leave again,and the generator which we use for 240volt power failed-new alternator needed-a week’s wait for it to arrive from Adelaide.Bill is at present finishing off the installation,and we hope to leave tomorrow.
Maybe as we are setting out so late in the season we will have the wind against us further down the coast and will have to return to Darwin for another Wet season!!

You'll Never Never Know If You Never Never Go

2008-11-21T13:36:00.012+10:00

We are just so lucky! Ben & Bianca gave us a hire car so we could visit them in Arnhem Land for a wonderful week,staying at Barunga,an aboriginal community 100km SE of Katherine,where Bianca is a remote area nurse. Special visitor permits had to be obtained,and we were very impressed with the tidy,well kept community,its friendly people and gorgeous kids.
On the roadtrip south made a break at historic Adelaide River,with its old tavern and railway station,showing many reminders of the important role this area played during WWII.The trip seemed quite quick as the speed limit is 130kph,the road mostly straight,and there is interesting country along the way.Bodi loved his airconditioned backseat lounge and was quite reluctant to get out,even for comfort stops.
As B&B have now lived in the Never Never area for over 12 months they knew all the best places to take us.Ben took us 4wheel bush driving showing us the beautiful country and wildlife-we saw brumbies,buffaloes,donkeys,kangaroos and vivid parrots.We visited one of the old mining sites near Maranboy,once very populated but now consisting of only a police station,lockup and derelict hospital.Having obtained permission from the traditional owners,and being a coordinator for the local Emergency Service,Ben took the ES boat,after a quick motor service by Bill,for a test run along the Roper River.It was amazing to see the river surrounded by tall dense tropical growth,huge palms and ferns,just a fertile channel in the dry,arid landscape.
We swam and snorkelled at Bitter Springs, visited bat-infested hot springs at nearby Mataranka and wondered at the spartan homestead conditions endured by the Gunn family of "We of the Never Never " fame.Then it was a great lunch at The Stockman's Gallery' opposite the huge old banyan tree.
Wugularr(Beswick)Falls was a highlight,with cool streams,a large sandy pool,with obvious croc tracks all over the shore, and the sheer dark red cliffs surrounding the waterfall.In Beswick, another aboriginal community we visited the Cultural Gallery,full of vibrant local works.We even managed a trip to Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge)and in the heat climbed the steep track to the top of the escarpment,for a spectacular overview of the gorge and miles of surrounding country,then enjoyed a lunch of Barra burgers and iced coffee,both local favorites at the cafe.Just outside Katherine we visited the original 1879 Springvale Homestead,surrounded by huge rain trees,where a pioneering family unsuccessfully attempted to farm in the extremely harsh conditions.
Almost reluctantly we returned to Darwin.Bill has started work and is finding his job full of variety; from helping the sailmaker to set up sails at various marinas,to restocking liferafts for the Navy,as well as serving in the chandlery-no mechanical work at all!
We now have a car,a necessity here,so we can go sightseeing as well as attend the great local weekend markets,and conveniently do our shopping.We have joined the nearby Dinah Beach(there is no beach!)Yacht Club and use their floating jetty(tide permitting)as well as socialise in the open air club breezeway,with live music several nights a week,and great reasonably priced meals.We're enjoying living in Darwin and getting used to NT time-not Today,not Tomorrow,not Tuesday,not Thursday, Not This week...just take your time!The Wet has not arrived yet-we've heard lots of stories-so we'll let you know !PS. It has just now started to rain!!

Up the creek in Darwin

2008-10-28T15:52:00.013+10:00

Yes-we made it to Darwin,but it's been too hot to type out the blog!
Even Bodi has had a radical trim.

We have a Darwin Port Authority mooring in Sadgrove's Creek close to Dinah Beach Yacht Club and Nautical Supplies,a large shipschandlery,where Bill now has a job for 6 months.After The Wet we will continue our travels down the West Coast with a new autopilot.
Our trip from Gove to Darwin,which took 11 days,was interesting,beautiful and isolated -we were out of phone and internet range for most of it,and met or sighted only several other people.The most exciting event was forcing our way through the "Hole in the wall"Gugari Rip,a 65m wide channel between Guluwuru and Raragala Is. in the Wessel group.Against the incoming tide we were gaining only 2knots at 3000rpm.,zigzagging to avoid shallow patches and rocky outcrops.Just after we emerged shakily at the western end we were hailed by radio from a Customs vessel,lurking around the next bay, checking our id. and movements.
Further west we overnighted at Refuge Bay,Elcho Is,then decide to head straight across towards the Goulburn Is. Passing close to the picturesque Crocodile Islands, we thought we'd stop off for a beach walk and swim,but just after anchoring we were greeted by a 4m."lizard",and then we noticed many slide marks and tracks into the water from the sandy beach!
Other stopovers were in a sheltered bay near Braithwaite Point where all the water drained away during the night,returning with the morning tide;Sims Is.in a bay full of coral heads,but we did manage to swim in the sandy shore.Heading north in Bowen Straits we were accompanied for miles by a school of mini-dolphins,playing and diving underneath,ignoring Bodi's excited barking.
At Port Essington-no port just a large body of water-we met Peter,the ranger at Black Point,viewed the info and cultural display,and decided to visit the ruins of the Victoria Settlement(1836-1849) further down the bay,another futile and tragic British settlement disaster.
At Cape Don we were hoping to visit the historic lighthouse,but after trudging for miles along the red dirt road,we were picked up by a Cape Don Experience 4wd troupie,told that we were trespassing as it was now all private property,an exclusive fishing lodge,and dumped back at the jetty.
Tidal flow determined our next few early mornings(3 or4 am.)to enable us to get the right currents through the Vernon Is.in darkness,anchoring at reef-fringed Cape Hotham,then through the Beagle Gulf and Timor Sea,reaching Fannie Bay,Darwin, about 11am. 23rdSept.We moved around and up the creek a couple of days later as it is very shallow,wind-prone and bumpy at Fannie Bay.
Ben and Bianca drove up from Barunga,400kms south in Arnhem land,where Bianca is a remote area nurse,to welcome us.It was a great reunion as we hadn't seen them since Townsville ,12 months previously.Next post will be about our visit to Barunga!

Over the Top!

2008-09-11T12:21:00.009+10:00

We finally left Cooktown about 2 weeks ago, provisioned, laundered and our ripped foresail robustly repaired by "Shakey Pete" using a maxiyacht sail offcut. Strong wind warnings were still current with gusts up to 35 knots, bufetting us as we made our way for Cape Bedford, a very shallow, sandy bay, surrounded by silica sandhills. On our beach walk we met Terrence, an artist who lived in a beach shack, his self-made 'twocanoes' catamaran with hand painted sails out front.

Next stopover Cape Flattery, another beautiful bay complete with indigenous

people spearing fish in the shallows. After a rough trip north-east, Lizard Island was interesting and exhausting, as we trekked all over, checking out Mrs Watson's house, over Chinaman's Ridge to the resort and tiny airport, the blue lagoon and other inviting bays, but as it was very overcast and very windy we didn't climb Cook's Lookout Hill.

Our Flinders Island stopover was eventful, having to dinghy ashore at low tide through coral, rocks and mud, Bill having to drag it through the shallows, watching for crocs, beating off with a paddle dozens of small stingrays darting about. But it was worth it to see the magnificent paintings of early ships, animals and fish in the caves in an area inhabited up until only 60 years ago.

Morris Island, a long days sail on, was a tiny coral fringed sand spit with several coconut palms and overrun with spiky succulents with tall central spears apparently planted by admirality to save shipwrecked sailors by providing coconuts and poles to harvest them! We were not alone...A fishing trawler spawning 4 small

runabouts taking off in all directions towards the horizon. Fish kept us company here until dawn. Bodi was delighted to have unexpectedly startled some pelicans into flight.

Now we have really experienced the trade winds. Making the most of them, we were using only sails to reach our destinations speedily, with little use of fuel. We progressed up the coast, passing many reefs to Portland Roads, a strategic base during WWII, now inhabited by about a

dozen people.

The Cape Grenville stopover was memorable, we found the largest and tastiest oysters and a small barracuda leapt up onto

our side deck. Bodi thought he'd caught it and guarded it all night! We had our first aerial surveillance check by Coastwatch and watched a 'mothership' providing supplies and fuel for th

e gathering fishing fleet. Via radio we witnessed an efficient rescue drama with a helicopter eventually plucking 3 'english challenged' people in strong winds and darkness from a yacht whihc had collided with a small reef near the outer fringe. Thank goodness for EPIRB's!

Further north we entered Escape River guided by a

fishing boat through the sand banks to an anchorage amongst pearl rafts and croc swamps. The next day we were propelled through Albany Passage then over the top to round Cape York, anchoring alone in the bay beneath with camera clicking land tourists silhouetted on the rocky track leading to the tip. Of course we headed up there and found ourselves alone for a short while sipping chardy to celebrate, a great thrill but very windy.

For the next few days recovery time, we anchored further south 50 metres off the beach at Seisia, the delightful little port for inland Bamaga community and took a ferry day tour to Thursday Island as quarantine restrictions would've made it too difficult in our boat,

while Bodi was minded by a new fan

who ran the ferry office and

caravan park. It was a great experience, like a remote island. Most of the population being of islander heritage were very friendly and the historic fort and cultural centre were fascinating. Seisia was also mainly populated by islanders, the arrival, loading and unloading of of the cargo ships from Cairns the main activity. The fishing club on the foreshore provided delightful live island style music nearly every night.

After extra safety lines and equipment and weather checks, we set off across the gulf on the Friday the 5th of September without much help from the wind. All was going well until later that evening when Fred, our autopilot had an electronic malfunction, and despite Bill's efforts (he does fix mostly anything!), we were forced to manually steer the rest of the way - 320 nautical miles, taking turns at the wheel, compass steering for the next 50 hours with only short breaks. Finally we land ahoyed about 6:30pm Sunday evening but by the time we entered Gove Harbour it was 8:30pm so we anchored well out in the harbour, full of boats, mostly unlit, dazzled by the huge alumina plant and wharf lights.

We have been lucky in Gove, where there is nothingat all but a sadly declining yacht club, with Nhulunby, 12 kms away and no public transport. By chance Bill made the acquaintance of the

Commodore, Roger, seeking help with the autopilot repair. He suggested a few possibilities and took us on a tour of the town and shops. An ex Port Mac boatie Greg, a customer in our marine business days, then lent us a vehicle for the duration of our stay. As this entire area is Aboriginal land, there are many limitations and issues (we had to go to the court house to acquire liquor permits to buy supplies) of which we have learnt about from Roger, married to the daughter of the traditional aboriginal owner.

Well this has been a huge post which I have forced my daughter to type out for me...ggggrrrrr...but much has happened and once we leave here there will probably be no more internet or phone until Darwin which is 1-2 weeks away. We will have to do without Fred but Bill has rigged up a joystick which will make steering much easier and as there are plenty of anchorages along the way, we will only be doing day-hops.

In the wake of James Cook

2008-08-19T17:39:00.002+10:00

We are in Cooktown-stuck here for 3-4 days of strong winds which blew us
into harbour last Sunday, after a very exciting turbulent sail from
Bloomfield River. It's a very small town but interesting-we'll be experts on
Capt. Cook by the time we leave,having checked out all the historic sites
and the excellent James Cook Museum and climbed to the top of Grassy Hill to
check out the Reef as Cook did.
We've had a great time passing through new territory,seeing places we've
been to 30 years ago -hasn't Port Douglas grown up beautifully? except for
the crocs beside the creek where we had to anchor! We were disappointed with
Cairns-very poor boatie facilities and a rough wet ride across from the
draggy river anchorages.Mostly we've overnighted at remote places which are
beautiful-like the uninhabited end of Palm Is.,up a creek off the
Hinchinbrook Channel, and just inside the Bloomfield River-but we had to
wait for an hour for enough tide to enter the sandbanked entrance,while some
locals duckied out to advise us of the whereabouts of the 'channel' as there
were no nav aids.
We'll be here a couple more days then head north again-Cape Flattery then
Lizard Is.
We're all well and Bodi is getting spoilt by people wanting to pat and talk
to him!

Here we go again

2008-06-30T19:09:00.002+10:00

Two XS new hardtop and storm covers ---- All hands below deck at Yamba- anti-fouling and new underside fairings

Marika's big catch at Bum's Bay, Gold Coast ---- Just missed the ferry to Dunwich, Moreton Bay

At Rick & Sue's jetty up Caboolture River, Beachmere ---- Bodi stalking his favourite chook at Beachmere

We're on our way north again, finally!

After 4 months in Port Macquarie and necessary boatwork at Yamba, and visits to friends at Russell Island and Beachmere, we're now at Mooloolaba. Marika flew back from Canada, joining us at Yamba for a great 2 week catch up, before heading back to Melbourne tomorrow!

From here we'll be sailing north on our planned trip around oz.

Dont Mention the Weather

2008-01-18T09:11:00.002+10:00

We have survived the strong winds,incessant rain and storms and are now enjoying our stay at Russell Is.,at the south-eastern corner of
Moreton Bay,catching up with ex Port friends, Ian & Bev Triplett and Mike & Sandy Emery,now locals.With their extensive cruising experience,Tripletts are giving us invaluable help towards planning our projected cruising trips.
To continue from the last blog,the rest of our voyage down the coast was uneventful as we kept ahead of the bad weather,stopping over at Yeppoon,Pancake Creek and Bundaberg,then on through Hervey Bay to the Great Sandy Strait and Kingfisher Bay Resort on Fraser Is.We overnighted at Tin Can Bay,setting off early for a very smooth trip out through the Wide Bay Bar.Once we had rounde Double Is. Point we felt we were making better progress,sailing due south instead of east.At Noosa Heads we sailed right in almost to the beach,hoping to go ashore for a stroll along Hastings St and a coffee,but could not get the anchor to bite in the gravel bottom of the bay,so it was on to Mooloolaba.
As we came through the port entry channel, we noticed crowds of people lining the foreshores,apparently flocking to welcome us-but after we anchored further inside the harbour,we learned that the Christmas boat parade was due to start-a great spectacle,with vessels of all types and sizes decorated and lit up in a long procession around the harbour passing right in front of Two XS.We spent a few more days in Moo.,met many more yachties, before setting out for Moreton Bay and Bribie Is.,anchoring beside the town of Bongaree,in the south-west corner.
We had decided to try to find some boaties met at Airlie,Rick& Sue,on Q Cat,so ventured up the Caboolture River,tentatively entering at high tide as this entrance and river are extremely shallow,and finally found them many winding miles later for a great reunion at their idyllic riverside estate.
,celebrating our 41st wedding anniversary at the local new Beachmere Tavern.
Brisbane was our next port of call,anchoring inthe middle of the city,near the Botanical Gardens.Unfortunately Two XS was attacked by a wide-swinging monohull with a nasty chunky bowsprit on too long an anchor chain,due to the strong currents and tides,so battered and bruised we moved further downstream,opposite the main Riverside docks.We had a great time in the city, catching up with cousins Sue,Margie and Helen and husband Bob,sightseeing and shopping.
Fortunately we had been invited to return to Rick& Sue's for a longer visit at Beachmere,so when the rough weather started, we were safe and snug in the Caboolture River,not out in the bay or further down the coast.We had a great time there,partying,meeting the locals,most of whom were boaties,catching mudcrabs,mushrooming in the sodden cow-paddocks,with Bodi having fun rounding up the cattle and kangaroos.Finally the weather relented and we ventured out into the Bay to Scarborough, for fuel and fresh seafood at Morgans.We then caught a good wind all the way across the Bay to Dunwich on Nth. Stradbroke Is.,a quiet town whose main tourist attraction appeared to be their Historic Cemetery.Further down the island we anchored at Blakesley's and caught 3 blue swimmer crabs-Bill is fast becoming an expert at tying them up for cooking.
Yesterday we went to Australia on the waterbus with Ian& Bev ,shopping at Victoria Point,as there is no real supermarket on Russell Is.We're nearly becoming locals,having been to the RSL for Roast Night,meeting more people every day,and Bill is helping Ian with a house building project.New houses here are innovative,mostly of unique steelframe design,standing on steel posts mainly on steeply sloping blocks.Older Queenslander style houses are shipped over from the mainland,set up on stilts and renovated.
The sun has now appeared-maybe the wet season is over and we can continue our journey south?
PS.Late breaking news-our beautiful Volvo has been drowned in the Airlie floods.Apparently the people we left it with to drive down to Brisbane this week,neglected to move it to higher ground in time.Yes it was fully insured, but BUGGER!!

More pics

2007-12-04T12:52:00.001+10:00

A selection of photos : Bill with his catch
View overlooking TwoXS inside Hill Inlet
Tide's gone out
Bowen views

No News is Good News

2007-12-04T12:22:00.003+10:00

Yes we did arrive safely back from Townsville at the beginning of October. On the way back we spent more time at places along the way and were lucky enough to have some good sailing winds and moonlit nights. Just south of Townsville along a spectacular stretch of rocky coast, we noticed military helicopters practicing their coastal approach skills over the cliffs and narrow beaches, finally lowflying and circling Two XS waving cheerily out the open sides.Further south at Cape Upstart we ventured deeper into the rocky bay, and while ashore met some locals who have built holiday homes amongst the rockpiles,arriving by boat to spend weekends and timeout from the mainland in this beautiful, isolated spot. They were intrigued with our sea-gypsy lifestyle,and Bodi’s seadog competence. Bowen is an interesting oldworld town, with streets so wide they have provided shady resting seats in the centre median area. Above the town department store, they are still proudly displaying the banner “Bowen welcomes Baz Luhrmann and cast”, referring to the movie filmed there earlier this year. All around town buildings are decorated with colourful murals depicting the town history and prominent early citizens.

Once back at Airlie,in very bumpy bay conditions, we welcomed aboard friends from Port, Ray and Ronda, to spend a week of island hopping. Strong winds prevailed for the first few days but we managed to visit Hamilton Is. coincidentally meeting up with other Port friends,staying at the resort .In spite of difficult conditions, we visited bays around the islands we had not seen before, the highlight was at last entering Hill Inlet behind Whitehaven Beach,at high tide, with Two XS sitting high and dry in a puddle of water overnight,moving out again through the winding channel at high tide next day.Photo opportunities galore!! At the end of October, Airlie staged its Reef Festival,with many activities, including a great fireworks display on the foreshore only 200 metres from our back deck, street decorations and parties,sandmodelling competition,and fashion parade including colourful locally designed stinger suits.A good idea as they are mostly in black and very unbecoming-but necessary.There was also a stall giving info.and displaying stingers in jars-and they are so tiny but lethal.

During November we went for a little trip north as far as Island, stopping over at many of the bays and islands on the way, scoring a feed of juicy oysters off the rocks near Jarrod McCracken’s proposed dreamhome-no wonder he’s in trouble with the authorities-we walked all around the huge site and saw the devastation clearing the site has caused to this superb coastal nature reserve.

Gloucester Eco Resort welcomes passing boaties,so we went for a drink at their open air bar and stayed for a gourmet dinner of seafood,music provided by a band who was playing for a 50^th Birthday party at the restaurant,and later heard from Two Xs out in the bay.

On our way back we called in at Hideaway Bay near Dingo Beach ,a very pretty spot with a bay full of tidal coral reef,and many interesting houses of modern design,mostly timber and glass.

At another bay with no name (excellent beach no.3 in our guide book)not only did we all have good swims and beachwalks,but we brought out Dad’s old net, set it across a tidal creek, catching a large fish.Our first catch except for the landing netted garfish at Tongue Bay.We were lucky with perfect weather and helpful winds on the way back to Airlie.

Strong winds and frequent showers were not good conditions for cousin Geoff and Kathy setting out on their first rent-a yacht holiday here-but they bravely made the most of it and had many memorable experiences during their week aboard little “Ripple”. We managed to spend some good time with them catching up and swapping sailing stories.

Since then we have been waiting for favourable winds to head south, have changed the car rego to Qld. And spent a high tide/low tide night at nearby Woodwark Bay beaching Two XS,cleaning off the Airlie Bay grime ready for a quick getaway.We are sad to be leaving Airlie, having enjoyed the last four months there and feeling almost locals.

As this is the second attempt at this post,the first dogged by intermittent internet sabotage and frustration-the whole episode painstakingly finished-only to vanish before publishing, we have moved on considerably and are now on our way back south to avoid cyclone season.At the moment we are at Freshwater Bay sheltering from the strong S/E winds and rough seas-forecast for N/E winds not until Tuesday.We had made really good distance until yesterday, sailing 14 hours,covering 85 nms and all in daylight.But then the N/E changed.

This is a remote lovely bay south of Port Clinton and about 40 nms north of Yeppoon-but it’s a military exercise area and large signs are all along the treeline forbidding entry-just as well Bodi cant read-he loves sniffing around the bush.There is no phone or internet access here but I hope to post this up as soon as we’re back in range insight of Yeppoon.

An update on Ben & Bianca-her RAN contract has been extended to 12 months so they’ll be staying in Mataranka-Ben has grown a Moustache for Movember, and is working busily on website design.

Marika& Khan again have liftie jobs and have bought a car to travel to the snowfields-main problem is finding accommodation near Fernie as it is not provided for staff as at Nakiska.

Tigger has had to have vet treatment for a tick but is now resting comfortably at her Beechwood retirement home.

Please wish for NE /N winds-anything but S/SE !

PS.Sad news just received-Tigger was attacked by two more ticks and despite the vets best efforts did not recover-poor little pet had only one week to go to her 17^th birthday.

P.S.

2007-09-24T12:46:00.003+10:00

Photos to go with latest post-
Our new home address -Pioneer Bay.
Maud's Bay,Mag.Is.
Bodi admiring batfish
Town centre,T.ville
Marina, Townsville

Just a little further north this year

2007-09-24T10:26:00.001+10:00

Bayside T.ville

Yes,it's about time we updated and a lot has happened.We're now officially canetoads with Qld licences and boat rego to prove it.Our new legal residential address is-S.V.Two Excess,Pioneer Bay,Airlie Bch.Qld.and we even have a post office box.
We were lucky to get a lift back to Port to pick up our car-thanks again Jono-and found that Tigger has completely disowned us! 5.5 days with 4 spent on the road,a fleeting visit to Port,torrential downpour near Rockhampton on the way back-but it's great to have wheels at Airlie. Lucky Bodi now has doting fosterparents who minded him on their cat while we were away.
Since then we have made the voyage to Townsville,where we met Ben&Bink on their way to Mataranka,NT. where Bink will spend the next 3 months as R.A.N (just like the TV series,Flying Doctor?)and Ben hopes to find some work also.Townsville is a friendly little city,very north Qld,full of historic buildings,beautiful bayside parks and gardens,and plenty of outdoor cafes and pubs.
Tuesday afternoon we were about to set sail for Magnetic Is.across the bay,but a strong wind blew up,so Bill ended up helping rescue other boats which broke their mooring out in the "duckpond" anchorage around us and were washed onto the breakwall nearby.Wednesday we sailed to Mag. discovering Maud's Bay,accessible only by boat on the NW coast,a spectacular and magical spot to spend the moonlit night,lined with huge boulders,fringed with a sandy beach and clear blue water.Next was Horseshoe Bay,more civilised with beachside pub and shops,but the bay full of turtles,and the Red Baron biplane doing joyflights.Radical and Balding Bays are gorgeous-more huge boulders and sparkling tropical sea.Staying overnight in Florence Bay we were mobbed by a squad of huge grey and yellow batfish,who fascinated Bodi with their antics.Picnic Bay, the oldest port,is a lovely spot with quaint holiday houses and history /craft centre in the old schoolhouse.On our island bus trip with Friendly Fred we toured every back street of shady Nelly Bay,and even picked up an entire wedding party needing transport to Peppers Resort for the reception after a bayside ceremony.
On the way back to Tville we anchored in the bay to watch the Offshore Powerboat Race,exciting in the windy swell.As we were heading back to the duckpond we spotted Catamaran Imagine, which took us on our first cat voyage in 2004 from Mackay to Southport and confirmed our present lifestyle choice.Of course a reunion and catchup followed with our Melbourne friends,Glenda&Warren.
Wind is wrong today,S/SE,but tomorrow looks like a better chance to head back to Airlie-about 4-5 days sailing.We intend to see more of Bowen and spend more time at places we bypassed on the way back.T.ville is as far north as we will go this season.
An update on Marika&Khan-they have settled in Vancouver for 2 months,after 6 months in Japan,a month in Thailand,cycle touring in Cambodia,and another brief visit to Europe.They will work the snow season again and are deciding on which resort area to spend the next 6 months.
Photos are-Picnic Bay. Bayside,Tville

more photos

2007-08-13T13:44:00.001+10:00

Only 2 photos allowed per post!Here's where we're going tomorrow-Hill Inlet-entry at high tide only
Beach scene at Whitehaven

Whitsundays for winter

2007-08-13T10:52:00.002+10:00

Having been banished from the mainland anchorages by the military wargames we headed out to the islands-Hexham, then on to the popular Percy group where we enjoyed rugged rocky scenery,more goats-(Bodi had a close confrontation with a large old billygoat), coconuts laid on, and fantastic sunsets. Then it was on to Digby Is. and Mackay, where we stayed a few days,met some more interesting boaties and had our freezer fixed.From there, with more strong SE winds promised we sailed with great wind assistance via St.Bees and Keswick Is.,stayed at Brampton Is. on to Airlie Beach,and Abel Pt Marina, where we commandeered the public wharf to take Ben&Bianca aboard for a Whitsunday tour.
In spite of the still strong winds early on, we had a great week-snorkelling in beautiful bays,anchored at Whitehaven beach overnight at full moon,did some bushwalking at Nara inlet to see aboriginal cave paintings, and Cid Harbour and everywhere that incredible bluegreen ocean. At Coconut beach on the back of Lindeman Is. Bill gathered some huge oysters (yum!) and Ben caught a Chinaman fish which disappointingly was listed as poisonous.In the early hours of the morning there were suddenly big waves and when Bill went out to secure the ducky he saw a monstrous black shape surface out in the deep water in the moonlight.
Next day we headed back to Airlie to pick up Bill's brother Ian,Elaine and two boys for more cruising. With 8 on board for several days TwoExcess handled it well, and everyone had a memorable time with lots of laughs,perfect weather, and great holiday fun including holing the ducky,overloading it,and nearly filling it with water-but everyone survived!
Now we're back to 3 again,based at Airlie Bay. Ben&Bink have continued on their round oz camping trip,last heard from at Townsville.We've had a 3 day stay at Woodwark Bay,background setting for the 90s TV series Tales of the South Seas,complete with island style luxury houses and outdoor bathhouses and spas.
Still no fish have been caught and we lost our crabtrap on its first outing-it can only improve!The mail has caught up with us and it's GST statements to compile and boring paperwork to do(for the Last Time!!) I guess there have to be some penalties for this idyllic lifestyle.
The weather has warmed up,and we have discovered the regular Sat.am. Airlie Bch markets,with fresh produce to stock up-including fresh prawns and sticky rice- it's a tough life but someone has to do it and Airlie Bay is full of them.
By the way Tigger is blooming in her retirement at Bellangry-with her own new garden appartment and meals to her door-she never thought life could be so good again.
We're at Macona Inlet (Hook Is) at the moment and internet coverage is good-we have bought an aerial for our Turbo modem and hopefully should have better access.Later today we're sailing via Hook Passage to the top of Whitsunday Is. then to Tongue Bay for a feed of oysters,then around to Hill Inlet where we'll go inside the passage at high tide, stay overnight, then back out and on to Whitehaven, where we'll empty out the ducky of its pile of sand underneath the inner floor and check the patches.
Photos-White's Bay at Middle Percy Is.,and sunset from West Bay beach Middle Percy
underwater world,A-frame hut,boaties' memorabilia(West Bay),Ben admiring aboriginal art,Nara Inlet, forbidden catch!

More photos to cheer you up

2007-07-20T11:34:00.002+10:00

Hi again-just wanted to add some photos.This is the view south from Cape Capricorn,and Bodi watching the little cart being winched to the top ,carrying people and supplies-the brake is a stick and a piece of rope!
We are now at Mackay waiting for 20-30 knot winds to abate.More details about our island tour soon.

Bring on the Tropics

2007-07-19T13:53:00.002+10:00

Apologies for the long pause between posts, but we have been constantly on the move northwards-the problem is-when we have the time, we're rocking and rolling and/or there is no internet access.
What an exotic-sounding trip we had through the shallow back channels inside Stradbroke Is to Moreton Bay-via Tipplers' Pass, avoiding Tigermullet Channel and Whalleys' Gutter, sighting the feared Jumpinpin Bar,then via Canaipa Passage to Russell Is. There we were "had" by an old local who told us we could reach the civilised end of the island with a "brisk 20 minute walk playing with a dog"-it was 45 minutes later and getting dark when we decided to turn back and no bright lights in sight!Ex-Port Mac friends Bev & Ian Triplett were away in Thailand ,but we managed to wave to Mike Emery passing us along the straits to Moreton Bay driving the speedcat ferry.
After a night at Coochiemudlo Is. we set off for Mooloolaba arriving in the dark and rain to a safe marina berth.From there we did our first overnighter in brilliant moonlight to reach the dreaded Wide Bay bar at the right tide.However with the early morning sun we had trouble picking up the indistinct 1st lead light,but finally navigated our way to safe waters inside the break. We enjoyed a night in Snapper Creek and the village of Tin Can Bay where local artists have decorated walls,watertank and public toilets, then on through the Great Sandy Straits requiring very accurate navigation to Garry's Anchorage.Along the way we anchored at Kingfisher Bay Resort, enjoying pizza nearly as good as Flavours, although the ducky ride "home" after was freezing.
Next stop was Bundaberg, continuing up the river to the city passing the Bundy Rum factory, and the huge sugar sheds and conveyors.A lovely old country town where they even chatted to you at the P.O.
The Town of Seventeen Seventy was our next stop,weaving through sandbanks and shallow channels to reach the bay, a pretty little place with only a Captain Cook monument,caravan park,pub/cafe and cruiseboat depot. Bill had a rush trip back from the beachto save Two XS from the rocky end of the bay when it dragged anchor in strong tide and current in the bay.
Bustard Head with Pancake Creek anchorage was reached next day,a very isolated and beautiful place,where Bodi enjoyed a shampoo bath in a rockpool.
On to Cape Capricorn and a very steep climb up to the lighthouse,whose caretaker was Greg Alchin from Lake Cathie for 4 months of the year.Terrific panorama from the top. After a bumpy night in the bay we went on to reach Great Keppel Island,anchoring on the eastern side in Wreck Bay with 6 other cats. This became Bodi's favourite spot chasing goats up and down the steep hillsides and galloping around the beach.After two nights here we moved around to
Leake's Beach in the north and trekked over the hill to the resort coming back via the beach.
Back in communication again-we sailed to the mainland, staying the night at Keppel Bay Marina,enjoying the convenience of their courtesy car to provision in Yeppoon,where we were given Seniors' discount on our groceries at Woody's Store.
The next section of coast was dodgy as the army had declared a no-entry, live ammo exercise zone,covering all the usual anchorages for the coastal area from Cape Manifold to past Shoalwater Bay.We anchored in Freshwater Bay with 4 other boats overnight, but could not go ashore,so we had to make a comfort stop for Bodi in a tiny bay further up the coast,then headed east to Hexham Is, watching jets screaming overhead and huge explosion clouds rising from the shore.Overnight was uncomfortable at Hexham Is. as a strong wind came up and swell, so we set out early Sat. morning for the Percy Is. group, a favourite spot for travellers.
Everything is going well,except for a eutectic problem with the freezer,and we're all having a great time.Hopefully you have read this far-looks like a novel!next post had better be sooner.

Sunny Qld -not !!

2007-06-20T20:36:00.001+10:00

Here we are in Southport and it's freezing-but at least we missed the terrible weather down south-we knew when to leave Port Mac.
Since the last news we have had a much more relaxed time-getting used to being retirees.The job in Yamba took longer than expected because freight bypasses the town so it took an extra couple of days for the additional prep products needed to properly treat the condition of one minikeel which had a surface problem before applying the antifoul.Now Two XS has a very clean bottom and adds more speed to our trips.It was pretty weird living 20 feet up a ladder for 6 days especially when it poured for the last 24 hours,making paint-drying a nightmare.
While we were in the area waiting for suitable sailing conditions we became well acquainted with Iluka across the river and were lucky to find Tony at Crystal Solutions,an amazingly well-stocked electrical,electronics,computer store,who not only sorted out our Gps-laptop link,but improved our tv reception by personally installing a set top box etc-on boat service!He took heaps of his own time but insisted he just wanted to see us properly set up to head off again.
Decided to see a bit of the Big River so we headed up to Harwood,and were at the right place at the right time to meet up with a group of Yamba Yacht clubbers,who welcomed us by inviting us to join them at their evening BBQ.What a great group and a fun night. Next day we accompanied them as they had booked the Harwood Bridge opening for their annual upriver sail to Lawrence. We continued on as far as Ulmarra, a heritage village,which had a great wharf but a pub with no food-they had served 120 lunches and were out of supplies.
Next morning we set off back downriver calling in at Maclean where we had been marooned in the pub during a flood in the 60's on our way back from the Gold Coast.The town hasn't changed much.The shops were right next to the wharf so we were able to stock up very conveniently without having to carry stuff for miles and then load it into the ducky and back to the boat.We caught up with the Yamba group back waiting for the bridge re-opening and sat and enjoyed the perfect weather that we had had all weekend while the storms were raging down south.
The next few days were not as good and we stayed at Iluka in the bay waiting for good winds.We finally sailed out of Yamba on Sat arriving in Ballina just on low tide so had to wait around for about 1.5 hrs-but the whales turned on a great show for us,leaping and diving quite close.The bar crossing was very tense as waves roll in sets from both angles towards the river opening so you have to time and count, then gun both motors,but we made it with no trouble.Next morning going out we got through ok but turned north too soon ,and caught a bit of a breaker tilting the boat up-a few minor breakages in the galley and Bodi's eyes grew a bit wide.
We had estimated 12 hours to Southport but had such a great wind we were flying at up to 12.5 knots,averaging 6.7, that we did it in 9hrs and it was still daylight as we arrived.We have made Bums' Bay our anchorage-along with about 6 other big cats and yachts-close to Nara and Seaworld.Yesterday we took ourselves across the broadwater
and anchored amongst boats on Southport Yacht Club buoys-not appreciated!Well it was very convenient to Australia Fair and the P.O. to collect our mail.Today we spent time onshore buying a trolley to carry back gear because our arms are stretching too much.We've caught up with a few people here and are planning to set off again through
the back channels towards Moreton Bay probably on Friday 22nd weather permitting of course.The trouble is,we're becoming so relaxed we sometimes dont even know what day it is-poor old retirees!

Setting sail at last!! Sunday,May 27 2007

2007-06-03T16:25:00.003+10:00

sunset Yamba in bay

We finally head out through the Port Macquarie bar after much farewelling and even an escort or two-thanks to Jeremy and Brenda, Lou and Denise our neighbours from North Harbour.Thankyou to all those who came and gave us such a great send-off-we'll be thinking of you when we're cruising the Whitsundays in a few short weeks time.
There's only 3 of us now,as "the girls" couldn't come-We lost our beloved Winnie in a tragic river accident in April,and Tigger with her seasickness problem and fearfulness
had to be sent into retirement at Beechwood-thanks to Elaine for her kindness.Maybe all for the best-after all they were 16 years old!
Our first landing was at SouthWest Rocks-actually the Macleay River-crossing the bar by moonlight was a thrill.Found a good mooring upriver outside the Riverside Tavern and became their only Sunday dinner customers-great food and superb service.Next morning we went for a walk and were caught in a sudden shower.Later while heading out through the bar we were caught by a sneaky greenie and ended up with 3 inches of water through the cockpit,all drenched including Bodi-we'll duck faster next time-even the sailbag was full of water-but Two Xs handled it well.
Coffs Harbour was next-staying longer than we planned because of rugged noreasterlies.Bodi suffered separation anxiety when we went to the showers the first evening and fell in trying to jump ship and ended up swimming 200metres then climbing up rocks,standing there howling until we turned up to rescue him.
On Thursday 31 we reached Yamba with the aid of reasonable winds making good time,moored in the bay next to town for the night then into the marina as planned for our big liftout at 8 Fri morning.We're 20 feet up now and in a great position our back deck overlooking the river.Bill has been working flatout-so much for retirement-and the antifoul job should be finished by Mon night and back in the water by Tuesday-Bodi is not thrilled at having to stay down below but is being taken for lots of walks to make up.Yamba is such a lovely little place.
Well that's about it for now,do make comments and send us emails please we'd love to hear the latest from Back Home!

north harbour-our new home

2006-10-01T22:05:00.001+10:00

we have a new mooring at north harbour