We're at Rockingham Bay,south of Fremantle,at the lower end of Cockburn Sound,opposite Garden Is. Naval Base,enjoying a relaxing break before we head out to the south and into the Indian ocean again.It's a perfect bay mooring,only 100m from the beach,yacht club,cafes and shops,next to 'Fortuna',with tiny penguins swimming underneath the boat.We ferried to nearby Penguin Is.Sanctuary and saw the huge colonies of breeding pelicans and cormorants,and watched the tame tiny penguins being fed at the Discovery Centre.
Two days after reaching here we bought a bargain car,a '96 Mitsubishi Magna,so we will have transport during the next few months ahead while we're waiting in this SW region to cross the Bight.There is so much to see around this area,including Margaret River.Don't know how long we'll stay here,with everything so convenient,but will eventually sail back out into the Indian Ocean and the prevailing afternoon southerlies,maybe as far as Busselton by New Year.We are looking forward to Marika and Khan flying over from Melbourne to join us then for about ten days-haven't seen them since June last year!
Carnarvon proved difficult to leave;we were held against the Fishing Harbour fuel wharf by the strong evening southerly,and only managed to escape next morning by securing a line to an adjacent dock to help pull Two XS around. However, the further south we went into Shark Bay,the better the conditions,if very shallow.We anchored just off the beach at Monkey Mia in incredibly clear blue water. During our return trip to shore,a resident mother dolphin and calf came up beside the dinghy,swimming laps around us,eyeing the excited Bodi,who would have jumped in with them,only held back by Bill grabbing his tail.
We stayed over at beautiful Cape Peron,surrounded by huge red sand cliffs and clear shallow water on our way to Denham,where the Shark Bay Discovery Centre contains an outstanding display,including a replica of Dirk Hartog's plate,originally affixed north of here over 300years ago.Passing Australia's most westerly mainland, Steep Point, we sailed back out into the Indian Ocean,heading out at least 20nm to catch the helpful Leeuwin Current,and avoid the effects of the shipwreck-littered Zuytdorp Cliffs,extending 150nm south.After an uncomfortable,bumpy overnighter we reached tiny Port Gregory,in through reefs and rocks.Unfortunately the headsail failed to furl properly in the strong wind and had to be secured around with halyards to prevent its flapping shaking Two XS wildly,and could not be sorted out until Geraldton, when the wind abated.There we anchored in the bay near the Yacht Club close to the town,and spent several days sightseeing and recovering,preparing for the next major leg to Fremantle.
All the stopovers,Port Denison,Jurien Bay,Lancelin and Two Rocks,required entry through outer reefs,then narrow,twisty and often shallow access to a harbour and welcome shelter and calm. At Two Rocks,moored at the marina fuel wharf,Bill had to go underneath Two XS in the dinghy to repair damage to the forward strakes of the bridgedeck,where waves had repeatedly hammered all down the coast,and water was forced inside.However Two Rocks was a friendly,convenient place,and 'Ohmless'and 'Toucan'caught up with us here,while 'Fortuna'had gone on ahead.
Next stop was Hilary's Marina,a northern suburb of Perth,where we were invited to tie up at the V.I.P.wharf in front of the Yacht Club,because as usual down this coast there were no pole berths wide enough to accommodate a cat.There is a huge separate marina complex with tourist and upmarket shops,cafes and restaurants,all on the waterfront.
At Fremantle we had a berth on the Fremantle Sailing Club visitors' wharf,a huge marina area,fortunately sheltered here while gale force winds blew outside for most of our stay.It was so cold and windy while we did our tourist thing,travelling to Perth by train,only 30 minutes away,to take in the sights-a clean if small modern city.We walked and bussed all over Fremantle,full of imposing and quaint historic buildings,the Maritime Museum a fascinating place to visit,including a guided tour of the submarine HMAS Ovens.We stocked up on fresh produce at the old markets in the town centre,especially the double-sized punnets of yummy strawberries-a local treat.
Don't know how long we'll stay here,with everything so convenient,but will eventually sail back out into the Indian Ocean and the prevailing afternoon southerlies,maybe as far as Busselton by New Year.We are looking forward to Marika and Khan flying over from Melbourne to join us then for about ten days-haven't seen them since June last year!
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