The Bottom Lefthand Corner-Freemantle to Albany

      We spent a very rugged night rounding the cape at sometimes less than 2knots,tossed about in 20-30+ gusts of wind and converging currents.We had intended to overnight at Hamelin Bay, but by the time we were near there it was too late;it's not a bay you enter for the first time in darkness,so we had to make the decision to continue on around the Cape.There was nowhere to rest until reaching a bay near Point d'Entrecasteaux the following day about 4pm.And then the surf was too rough to go ashore.

Finally we're in the Southern Ocean,and have safely arrived in Albany.The dreaded Cape Leeuwin,where the two oceans meet,lived up to expectations.
Next day with some help from the wind we reached Peaceful Bay,a beautiful spot,but it took 6 attempts to anchor in the tiny rock-strewn anchorage,where two boats was a crowd.We were not thrilled to hear the anchor drag alarm at 3am.The following day we stayed at Dunsky Bay,,near Torbay Head,an idyllic tiny steep beach,clear blue water,surrounded by huge smooth rocks.We set out from here with ever increasing winds,on the nose of course,tacking backwards and forwards across the bay,right up under the towering wind-farm mills.It was a terribly rough ride around Bald and Limestone Heads,but the huge rocks above us were spectacular.On the final run towards the harbour entry channel,we nearly ran over lines of black buoys,probably oyster leases.Once inside the harbour,we headed for the Town Jetty,as advised by our FSC guide,but found only piles of rocks and earthmoving equipment,as they are remodelling the whole area.A quick radio call to the local VMR and we were rerouted to the Princess Royal Sailing Club on the other side of the bay,where two helpful locals guided us into a safe berth at the marina jetty,where we still are moored.
We have been made so welcome here by the locals and offered every assistance,even a lift into Albany the next morning to catch the coach to Bunbury at 8am.to pick up our car.That provided a scenic tour through interesting old towns,then we took another route coming back and covered more picturesque areas,reaching Albany just on dark.We are looking forward to seeing more of the places around here,as what we have glimpsed so far has been spectacular,both from the sea and on land.
This last couple of months have been great,taking daytrips all over the southwestern area,from the Swan Valley,Perth Hills,historic Bunbury,Busselton, the beautiful West Coast area and the hinterland.We even drove down to Cape Leeuwin and Augusta to get an idea of what lay ahead.We visited many wineries and breweries and were given a Margaret River tour by local Ned,whom we had met on the way down from Broome,sailing on 'Othello'.
Marika and Khan's visit was a highlight,catching up after more than 18 months.Unfortunately,because of strong winds,we didn't do much sailing with them,however we progressed from Fremantle to Bunbury,taking inland sightseeing trips,and they managed to swim,relax and enjoy the sunshine.
Bunbury is an historic city with many well-preserved old buildings and houses,strong links to the early settlers.We preferred Busselton as it is a smaller,friendly town,well-situated in the centre of the wine region,close to the West Coast,with its spectacular bays and beaches and surfing spots.IIt was here we met Dave and Dale on 'Raffles Class'and later at Quindalup,Hugh and Robyn on 'Georgia',both couples living aboard,when not at home on Christmas Is.which sounds like another paradise.
We have met so many friendly,helpful and interesting people here that it's going to be hard to continue on our way in a couple of weeks' time.Many also have knowledge and experience of crossing the Big Bight.We have ordered a new Delta anchor from Fremantle,so hopefully we will have no further trouble anchoring along the Southern Coast,as these are more suited to conditions here than our Ploughs.

Rocking with Penguins-Carnarvon to Rockingham (Freemantle)

We're at Rockingham Bay,south of Fremantle,at the lower end of Cockburn Sound,opposite Garden Is. Naval Base,enjoying a relaxing break before we head out to the south and into the Indian ocean again.It's a perfect bay mooring,only 100m from the beach,yacht club,cafes and shops,next to 'Fortuna',with tiny penguins swimming underneath the boat.We ferried to nearby Penguin Is.Sanctuary and saw the huge colonies of breeding pelicans and cormorants,and watched the tame tiny penguins being fed at the Discovery Centre.
     Two days after reaching here we bought a bargain car,a '96 Mitsubishi Magna,so we will have transport during the next few months ahead while we're waiting in this SW region to cross the Bight.There is so much to see around this area,including Margaret River.Don't know how long we'll stay here,with everything so convenient,but will eventually sail back out into the Indian Ocean and the prevailing afternoon southerlies,maybe as far as Busselton by New Year.We are looking forward to Marika and Khan flying over from Melbourne to join us then for about ten days-haven't seen them since June last year!
     Carnarvon proved difficult to leave;we were held against the Fishing Harbour fuel wharf by the strong evening southerly,and only managed to escape next morning by securing a line to an adjacent dock to help pull Two XS around.    However, the further south we went into Shark Bay,the better the conditions,if very shallow.We anchored just off the beach at Monkey Mia in incredibly clear blue water. During our return trip to shore,a resident mother dolphin and calf came up beside the dinghy,swimming laps around us,eyeing the excited Bodi,who would have jumped in with them,only held back by Bill grabbing his tail.

We stayed over at beautiful Cape Peron,surrounded by huge red sand cliffs and clear shallow water on our way to Denham,where the Shark Bay Discovery Centre contains an outstanding display,including a replica of Dirk Hartog's plate,originally affixed north of here over 300years ago.Passing Australia's most westerly mainland, Steep Point, we sailed back out into the Indian Ocean,heading out at least 20nm to catch the helpful Leeuwin Current,and avoid the effects of the shipwreck-littered Zuytdorp Cliffs,extending 150nm south.After an uncomfortable,bumpy overnighter we reached tiny Port Gregory,in through reefs and rocks.Unfortunately the headsail failed to furl properly in the strong wind and had to be secured around with halyards to prevent its flapping shaking Two XS wildly,and could not be sorted out until Geraldton, when the wind abated.There we anchored in the bay near the Yacht Club close to the town,and spent several days sightseeing and recovering,preparing for the next major leg to Fremantle.

All the stopovers,Port Denison,Jurien Bay,Lancelin and Two Rocks,required entry through outer reefs,then narrow,twisty and often shallow access to a harbour and welcome shelter and calm. At Two Rocks,moored at the marina fuel wharf,Bill had to go underneath Two XS in the dinghy to repair damage to the forward strakes of the bridgedeck,where waves had repeatedly hammered all down the coast,and water was forced inside.However Two Rocks was a friendly,convenient place,and 'Ohmless'and 'Toucan'caught up with us here,while 'Fortuna'had gone on ahead.
   Next stop was Hilary's Marina,a northern suburb of Perth,where we were invited to tie up at the V.I.P.wharf in front of the Yacht Club,because as usual down this coast there were no pole berths wide enough to accommodate a cat.There is a huge separate marina complex with tourist and upmarket shops,cafes and restaurants,all on the waterfront.
    At Fremantle we had a berth on the Fremantle Sailing Club visitors' wharf,a huge marina area,fortunately sheltered here while gale force winds blew outside for most of our stay.It was so cold and windy while we did our tourist thing,travelling to Perth by train,only 30 minutes away,to take in the sights-a clean if small modern city.We walked and bussed all over Fremantle,full of imposing and quaint historic buildings,the Maritime Museum a fascinating place to visit,including a guided tour of the submarine HMAS Ovens.We stocked up on fresh produce at the old markets in the town centre,especially the double-sized punnets of yummy strawberries-a local treat.
    Don't know how long we'll stay here,with everything so convenient,but will eventually sail back out into the Indian Ocean and the prevailing afternoon southerlies,maybe as far as Busselton by New Year.We are looking forward to Marika and Khan flying over from Melbourne to join us then for about ten days-haven't seen them since June last year!