Friday, April 16, 2010

Bound for the Bight-Albany to Esperance

We're on the move again,cruising through the spectacular rock islands of the Recherche Archipelago,making for Middle Is.then Daw Is.,our final stop before launching ourselves into the Bight.
We had so many good experiences in Albany we feel invigorated to continue our voyage.The Magna was sold only 2 weeks after our arrival,but the new owner generously allowed us to keep it for most of our stay so we were able to fully explore the attractions of this scenic and historic region-Valley of the Giants,Treetop WalkDenmarkElephant Rocks,Two Peoples'BayTorndirrup N.P. 
Whaleworld,and historic Albany.
The helpfulness and hospitality of many locals,especially Brian and Mark,was really appreciated.Kevin Lane (Cruising West,180 Anchorages) regaled us with his sailing anecdotes,and much relevant advice on this southern waters  and Stewart and Maxine and Brian kept us supplied with fresh veges. from their gardens.Amazingly there were 4 other 'cats' at P.R.S.C. Marina,so we spent many enjoyable hours of company and 'sundowners',sharing stories of our experiences,especially Mark,with his world-wide sailing adventures.As well,"Ohmless",(Chrissie,Mike and Alfie),returned to their home port,and a welcome reunion-we hadn't seen them since December.
Other interesting events were the big Little Grove bushfire,set off near the windfarm,by a crashed Ulysses biker, in Albany for their 3000 member annual meeting;the fierce all-night lightning and thunder storm
(no hail thank goodness),and meeting other boaties travelling through.We have now gladly swapped our West Coast charts,except the Kimberley,for South Aus., Tasmania and Pacific areas,and have acquired several reliable weather programmes.
After spending more than 6 weeks in Albany,waiting for the 'right'winds and weather,we day-hopped to Esperance,via Cheyne(Hassell) Beach,Groper Bluff,Bremer Bay(6 days),   I
Starvation Boat Harbour and Butty Hbr.having a few adventures along the way.The first afternoon out of Albany,off Cape Vancouver,we were hit by a sudden "front",ripping the headsail and dumping our spinnaker pole overboard.After securing the sails,we went back to where it was still floating,but as we came alongside ,it upended and sank!No more 'poledancing' for Bill.Fortunately we were later able to get the sail stitched in Esperance,with local Matt's help.
Two hours later in the turbulent swell between Bald Is. and the mainland our garbage crate(tied on) was sucked off the back deck,and a galley cupboard burst open -two Zebra dinnerplates were smashed on the floor.
At Bremer Bay we experienced more wild weather and thunder and lightning ,but caught fish, and were able to buy Easter Eggs after a 3km. walk to the only general store/postoffice/fuel/liquor/bank shop.Another mishap here on one of our beach landings when we hit the hard sand beach travelling fast in the dinghy-a suspected cracked rib for Bill. Starvation Boat Harbour showed leads on our charts but none were apparent,so we had to navigate through the rocks and reef using our plotter and Cmaps                                                                            
                                                                  Butty Harbour was reached in pitch dark,but with nowhere else to go we managed to feel our way to anchor next to a rocky point using radar and the trusty plotter.What a beautiful spot next morning!

Esperance was a friendly town,smaller than we expected-no highrise. sailing club,especially Allan,made us welcome and gave us a pole berth in their marina when winds whipped up in the bay.Matt took us on a grand tour-The Ocean Drive,magnificent bays,rocks and beaches,with panoramic views of the Archipelago to the east.After spending a week there we have decided to go with the winds and head for the Bight.We estimate it could take us at least 7-10 days to reach land,depending on the winds,maybe Ceduna or Kangaroo Is.